- Super Glue,
- PVA Glue,
- Wooden Toothpicks,
- Hobby Cutters,
How to Draw: Flames (Tutorial)
In this post I will demonstrate how to draw three different types of semi realistic flames – small, medium and large.
You can use any brush you like, but I would reccomend using a round brush with a medium hard edge such as the “Round mixing brush”.
The only other brush I used is the “Soft” airbrush while adding the glow effects.
And here is the color palette. Note that the colors are slightly muted.
Small flame
I will start off with the smallest flame because it is the easiest one to draw.
Begin by blocking in a teardrop shape using orange. This will be the base for the flame. Make sure to keep the edges somewhat blurred and messy, especially as you near the top of the flame.
Now add a new layer above the first one and set it as a clipping mask. This will make the paint strokes stay only on top of the orange base.
Pick a yellow color and colour in the middle of the flame. Keep the lower part and the edges of the flame orange.
Now take a red color and color in the lower part of the flame, just below the yellow. Bring some red up by coloring the very edges of the base with it.
Next, pick a blue color and start painting the very bottom edge of the flame and also bringing some upwards, but only on the edges.
After merging the layers, pick the eraser tool and start erasing bottom bit of the flame. Delete it in a “U” shape making sure to leave some thin blue edges showing. This will make it look more realistic.
To make the flame look brighter, I added a white highlight in the centre of the yellow part of it.
And the last step is to make it actually glow. Do that by adding a new “color dodge” layer on top of the flame layer. Use an orange, yellow or a red color and an airbrush. Keep the brush almost as large as the flame and brush over the it, even going beyond it. Don’t over do it and keep in mind that this small flame will not give off that much light.
And the small flame is drawn!
This teardrop shape is the most basic one, but if you wish for more variation just use the liquify “Push” tool to transform it.
Tutorial: DIY Flames
Welcome to tutorial for modelling Flames. Here I will present to you a Step-by-step guide on how to create fantastic, highly detailed flames for miniatures in a matter of seconds.
Blazing flamethrowers, crackling braziers, torches or balls of magical fire – in the world of miniatures wargames flames add a lot of character and dynamic to our favorite tiny characters. With 3d printing prevalence and a lot of bitz selling companies getting your hands on some awesome parts has never been easier. Still why pay and wait, when you can make your own flames of chosen size and shape in a matter of seconds and from materials you probably already have at home!
Before we start, as usual, please take note that what works for me might not necessarily work for you.
You will need:
- Super Glue,
- PVA Glue,
- Wooden Toothpicks,
- Hobby Cutters,
Step one: Foundation
It is best to start by finding a base shape to build the flame around. It can be anything solid including toothpick, wire, piece of plastic, or even the miniatures themselves. In this case, with an idea of flames gushing out of a flamethrower, I cut a small piece of a toothpick.
Step two: Ingredients
Next I poured few small drops of PVA glue onto the piece of toothpick. Just enough to cover the wider end. Right after that, while PVA was still wet, I poured Super Glue on top and moved the shape around so that Super Glue covered entire PVA beneath.
Step three: Shape
Here’s where modelling kicks in. I used another toothpick to mix both glues and guide a quickly hardening ‘paste’ around and finally in one direction to form a cone. The mix creates an organic, irregular texture when drying, which provided additional detail to the flame.
It might seem difficult at first, but once you get how the ‘paste’ behaves it will be as simple as barely few moves of a toothpick to get a desired cone.
Three steps, that’s all it takes. With a bit of practice the process takes less than a minute and can be applied to any surface. Below are just some examples of the results:
I hope you find this tutorial interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below or via Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
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Tracing Method
Adjust the size to fit your surface and be sure to check your printer settings to see if the final size reflects the size you need.
Rub the back with graphite or use Saral paper and skip this step.
Be sure to rub the back of your paper on the side without the lines drawing using a HB pencil.
Hold up to window light to make sure graphite covers all the lines of the subject drawing.
Test your Seral paper to make sure the color you are using is going to show on the canvas.
Tape your paper on your surface to transfer with tape to keep it from moving. If you are using saral paper make sure you have both sheets taped down and the transfer side of the Saral paper will be facing your surface. Carefully, with medium pressure, redraw over every line. You can lift one corner of paper to see that your transfer is happening. If not, check if your rubbing is too thin or that your pressure is not too light. After you are done tracing the lines, remove your traceable and you should have a copy of the line art on your canvas.
Gridding Instructions
The gridding method allows you to dip your toe into drawing without being in the deep end of the drawing pool on day one. For our purposes, the gridding method has been worked out for you. In this example, is based on a one-inch square grid with everything of equal ratio. On your canvas, you will make a chalk line at the Halfway point horizontally and vertically. Then using your chalk tool and a T-square ruler at every 1 inch point both horizontally and vertically. The T-square will help ensure that your lines are straight.
To draw the grid your canvas must be dry and it’s advisable that it is also cool. You should use chalk that is wax or oil free. It must be pure chalk. I use a Dritz fabric-marking tool because it does fine lines easily and removes well from the canvas. There are also chalk pencils available or you could use chalkboard chalk. While I will always share with you the tools and equipment that I am using, you are welcome to deviate from that any time you feel something else is best for you.
Something that I have learned especially with complex images is that it can be easy to get lost in the grid. If you find yourself unsure, go back and check to make sure that the square you are marking on matches the square in your reference. After you master this method, you will be able to use gridding to transfer any image from a reference to your canvas.
Number your columns 1 – X, left to right, and your rows 1 – X ( X is the length) from the top to the bottom.
Find the first row that the contour line of your image enters and exits and duplicate only what you see in that one single square. Continue through the entire image square by square transferring, the contour lines of the subject with chalk on your canvas. When you have duplicated the subject from your reference to your canvas, you will be done.
You can remove chalk easily by taking a soft brush and getting it damp with clean water. Gently brush over the lines you wish to remove and they will lift.
If you prefer a different size there are many great resources out there that involve math about how to scale. I do not teach math for many good reasons and I could count them all for you, but that would be doing math. The resources out there for that information and those mathematical formulas exist online in copious amounts. Explained beautifully and if you are choosing to paint different sizes than we are utilizing in this mini book, I highly recommend finding one of those formulas and mastering it. Short of that, buy a canvas to match the free grid for this project.
