If you even wondered “what paint to use on rocks?” look no further, acrylic p aint pens are the best of both worlds when it comes to rock painting, improving the colour palette, mixing options, opacity and durability compared to Sharpies for rock painting and dollar store acrylic paint pens while keeping the fantastic silky matte texture from acrylic paints.
Shellac as a paint primer
I’m finishing up my adaptation of Norm’s router cabinet and have been mulling over how to finish it. I used shop-grade plywood that isn’t worth using a clear finish on. I thought I might shellac the entire cabinet in and out as a way of sealing it and then paint over the shellac on the outside of it. (I’m also using some hard maple trim, which I’ll finish with an oil/varnish blend to play off the painted plywood.)
My question is: does shellac work well as a primer under latex paint? Also, is there any advantage, either in expense or finish quality, of using shellac under paint as opposed to a conventional primer? I just figured since I’m finishing the inside with shellac anyway, why not keep going and skip the primer.
Replies
saschafer | Mar 11, 2008 06:05pm | #1
If you’re going to paint over it, I’d suggest a good primer intended for latex rather than shellac. Of course, you can have both: Zinsser’s B-I-N primer is shellac-based, and works very well under latex. I use it whenever I think there’s a risk of bleed-through of some contaminant that’s already on the surface (knots, embedded grease, etc.) However, I think Zinsser’s acrylic-based 1-2-3 primer is a little easier to use (water cleanup) and probably works about as well as a sealer, although I haven’t yet had much experience with it. -Steve
prbayliss | Mar 13, 2008 04:51am | #7
I stripped many door and window casings in my house. Underneath it’s softwood (130+ years) with quite a few knots. I started using regular oil based paint primers, but then moved to Zinsser B-I-N which definitely holds in the resin. Also the bin primer sands extremely flat and easily between coats so the top coats (latex high gloss enamel) come out looking beautifully smooth.Hope this helps,
Best regards,
Paul
JMadson | Mar 11, 2008 08:33pm | #2
http://www.zinsser.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=72 I would recommend the Bulls-Eye seal coat for what you’re trying to do. It’s a thinned, clear, de-waxed shellac. Will look good on the inside of the cabinet and can be used as a primer for both the paint and the varnish.
mike4244 | Mar 12, 2008 04:42am | #3
I have used shellac as a primer on knotty woods like pine. Many years ago I spot primed the knots on barge boards,then painted them before installing. I noticed the finish was shinier where the knots were primed. Had to lightly scuff with sandpaper before painting the last coat. Next time I had barge boards to paint I shellaced the entire board. This gave me a finish that looked really good. I have been using shellac or now shellac base primer whenever I paint knotty woods. mike
blewcrowe | Mar 12, 2008 03:48pm | #4
Absolutely. I use dewaxed shellac under to be painted surfaces. Really takes care of the bleed through from knots.
boilerbay | Mar 12, 2008 05:32pm | #5
Work well? maybe, generally – Yes.
I generally use a primer 1st UNLESS I have a concern of bleed through. I’ve had knots start to reappear after a few years EVEN under a primer. I always cover knots, ply glues etc.with dewaxed shellac 1st. Zinzer seal coat is fine or just as simple, make your own. Then prime over shellac. Shellac is a hard sealer but it’s very smoothness reduces the tooth for painting. Of course you could sand it all for “tooth” which then reopens your bleed through factor. Primers act as a binder to the shellac and offer a grabby surface to the finished paint. My experience is that shellac alone as a primer under latex may lead to long term latex adhesion failure. Just my experience.
I just do it (shellac) on trouble spots. It might be overkill to totally shellac many cabinets and then prime and then paint 2 -3 times with sanding in between. One cabinet- Ok I hate paint. John
nboucher | Mar 12, 2008 05:51pm | #6
Thanks, all, for the info. I think I’ll shellac the inside of the cabinet to seal it and use a primer for the painted surfaces on the outside. Because this is plywood, knots aren’t a problem and the exposed glues will be covered with maple edging. Besides, I think I’ve got a can of leftover primer around here somewhere. Now, all I have to do is find it . . . Norman
mudman | Mar 13, 2008 09:59pm | #8
Zinzer BIN is a pigmented Shellac primer. It is the best for oil and latex paints. It covers OK but it drys very fast and sands perfectly. It can also be tinted to the top coat. Mike
Pardon my spelling, Mike Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don’t have. You won’t regret it.
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Why seal rock paintings?
Sealing your painted rocks protects them from sun, rain and the passage of time – and and it also gives your rock paintings a nice finishing! There are a lot of different options available to shop online or on your local hardware store, let us guide you through them.
Sealing your painted rocks is not a necessity if you are just playing around, but if you want to keep these rocks for a long time, or hide them in nature for someone else to find, then we would recommend it.
Rock by Daphne Birett
What is the best sealer for painted rocks? What should I use to seal painted rocks?
There are many different brush-on and spray polyurethane sealants available, anywhere from your local hardware store, art store or even supermarkets.
The most important aspect about sealing rocks is to wait for your paint to dry for at least 24hs before applying any form of sealant.
Rocks by Kerrie Nadine Finlay, finished with transparent gloss seal.
Seal rocks with aerosol spray sealers
There are many different spray polyurethane sealants available. You can choose either a glossy, glaze, matte or satin finish depending on what you prefer your rocks to look.
Check if the sealant is waterproof, especially if you want to leave your rocks outside, and you are good to go.
Micador, Dulax or Boyle are some of the brands available in the market, but any you can find on Bunnings will do.
Photo by Jen Hall @paintyhandsart
Sealing rock painting with resin
Resin makes the rocks look extremely shiny, with a glass-like effect. Sealing your painted rocks with resin protects the paint from the elements and stops the colours from wearing off.
You can buy clear casting resin at Bunnings, Office Warehouse, Spotlight, ebay and lots of other places. This same material can be used for making jewellery and displays involving insects, coins and flowers. It dries crystal clear after 24hs.
“If your worrying about expense, a little goes a long way so it lasts for a long time” – says our craft-expert group member Bronwyn Giblin
Kathy Dore from New Zealand recommended on our group: “I love resin as I want my rocks to be super shiny. I didn’t like the sprays as it wasn’t glossy enough”
Sealing your rock with Mod Podge
We have seen many beautiful rocks sealed with Mod Podge, this popular craft supply includes vinyl acetate, making it somewhat water resistant, but not waterproof.
Rocks by Amy @just_another_amy_plans
For rocks that will be left outside, we recommend using Mod Podge Outdoors which is perfect for protecting crafts that will be outside and exposed to the elements.
Be wary though – some internet reviewers have claimed their painted creations looked weird after applying this coating, it takes longer to dry and even with the outdoor version – it might be subject to rain damage.
Shiny rock by Kala Chand
Sealing painted rocks with brush-on all purpose sealer
The same varnishes in spray formula are usually available as a brush-on alternative. You should search for a clear, non-yellowing finish that is waterproof and weatherproof (as you’d look for in a spray sealer).
You can also choose the type of finish, matte, glossy, satin, etc.
Use a soft brush and follow the directions of the product.
Can you seal painted rocks with PVA glue?
You certainly can use PVA glue to seal painted rocks – but you will need to apply many layers to coat the entire rock (waiting for the rock to completely dry before applying the next layer).
Read the label of your PVA glue to know if it’s waterproof or not.
Rock painting 101 most asked questions:
How to prime your rocks for rock painting
We get these questions all the time, “Why is priming rocks necessary?”, “Should I be priming my rocks?” and our answer is in short: YES. But we want to give you all the information so you can pick the right primer for your rock painting project.
Priming your rocks before you start painting is important for two reasons: the surface will be smoother and less porous, but still porous enough to absorb paint permanently (as opposed to a polished rock, ceramic or glass for example).
This will help you in the painting process, less coats of paint and less damage to your paint pen nibs and/or brushes.
