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How to draw an orchid? We represent the embodiment of simplicity and sophistication
Orchid flowers are striking in a variety of shapes, shades, and simplicity and sophistication at the same time. But what is so special about the buds, consisting of several petals? Perhaps the fact that they are not very common with each other. Surprising and multitonous flowers, which can be covered with a scattering of specks and intricate patterns. Let’s try to translate this unusual image on paper, learning from this article how to draw an orchid in stages. Detailed instructions (together with working sketches) will help to easily create an amazing image in the form of a pencil drawing.
The main secrets of how to draw an orchid most similar to this
Before you get started, you need to familiarize yourself with the main distinctive features of the flower. It is the presence of these details that will allow, when looking at the ready image, to affirmatively say: “Yes, this is an orchid”. We list them:
– shape and interesting arrangement of petals. As a rule, there are six of them – one central and the largest one facing upwards, four almost identical located symmetrically to each other and relative to the middle line of the flower, and the latter (the most unusual – terry, elongated, corrugated, etc.), looks down;
– a special middle inside the bud with long stamens or an unusual protrusion;
– the similarity of an orchid with a wax flower. At first, the new blossomed flower looks like an artificial one. The same stalk and buds.
How to draw an orchid? Stage one – we make sketches
- Label the middle of the flower. You can draw a small oval. From it on each side arrange two rounded and simultaneously pointed down petals.
- Two more others draw similar to the previous ones both in shape and size.
- Draw the smallest petal facing down.
- In this figure, there is no upper, largest petal or, perhaps, it is wrapped up, as it were. If desired, you can draw it to the flower in its upper part.
- The presented composition consists of a pair of images. Therefore add to the sketch of the first flower the image of the second, which will be slightly inclined forward.
To make the drawing look more realistic, apply finishing moments:
- Change the tonality of the petals by dashing the pencil. With this method, the orchid flower will become more prominent and lively.
- Then, in the middle of each of the two buds, stamen, which will consist of several protruding segments. At the tip of each, mark a small curl. Often in the drawings this part is depicted as a whole detail of an intricately curved shape.
- Give the petals some waviness.
- In addition to the flowers, paint the contour lines of the stems.
- The leaves have pointed ends and do not shine with splendor.
- Very refreshing picture of several uncovered buds, scattered located near the bud. They are usually depicted in the form of small ovals over the stems.
When do orchids flower?
The first thing to work out is when to expect your orchid to re-bloom. When you first got your orchid it was likely in full bloom. Because orchids can bloom for a good 3 months or so, sometimes longer, it’s difficult to know when it started flowering.
Plus nurseries and growers work their magic to get orchids blooming out of season for sale all year round by carefully manipulating light, temperature, fertiliser and more. So your orchid might not re-bloom as soon as you think, or may surprise you and flower again really soon!
There are exceptions, but the natural orchid growth cycle usually sees leaf growth in summer and early autumn, a flower spike late autumn to early winter, then all going well, flowering in winter and spring. It takes on average 2 to 3 months from new growth appearing to a fully developed flower spike, ready to bloom.
Once a flower spike has started growing, it’s best not to rotate your orchid, as the spike will want to grow towards the light. If shifted, the spike will try to twist back towards the light. Support a new spike as soon as it’s long enough (if you’d like the flowers to bloom up above the plant, instead of arch down), using plant stakes and plant clips.
A clever tip when buying orchids is to look for one that still has some closed buds at the end of the flower spike, rather than one that is in full bloom with all flowers open. If your orchid’s already in full flower at the store, it’s hard to know if you’ll have weeks or months ahead to enjoy those gorgeous flowers. But if you buy yours in bud, you’ll typically have a good 2 to 3 months (or longer) of blooming ahead to enjoy.
How long do orchids take to bloom again?
A happy, healthy orchid will usually rebloom every 8 to 12 months but some will flower again in the same season (tips coming up below for how to get your orchid to bloom again right away).
Many first-time orchid owners worry their orchid is dying when the flowers wilt and die, or the flower spike turns yellow and starts to dry up. Orchids can flower for a very long time – about 3 months, sometimes longer – but flower spikes won’t last forever. This is part of the normal cycle for an orchid.
The plant itself isn’t dying. The flower spike is not your plant. Your plant is the leaves, crown, stem and root system. With basic care your plant will keep growing and re-bloom again for you.
Should I cut the flower spike off my orchid after flowering finishes?
Flowers that have wilted and turned brown one-by-one should be removed from the flower spike (they will naturally drop off anyway if not removed). When all flowers are done, the usual advice is to trim the stem of the flower spike, but there are three options you can consider.
#1: Leave it
If your orchid’s spike has lost all the flowers but the tip of the spike is still green, healthy and producing new buds, there’s nothing you need to do. With normal care, it should keep blooming for you.
Make sure to keep feeding a flower fertiliser like GT Orchid Focus BLOOM, or Dyna-Gro Bloom, as flowering requires a lot of energy and a flower fertiliser helps top up your orchid’s tank, ready to fuel repeat flowering.
#2: Trim the flower spike only
If flowering has finished and the tip of the spike is turning yellow or dry, but the rest of the plant is looking healthy, you can attempt to make it bloom a second time in the same season, however the flowers may not be as big or bloom as long. Some growers feel forcing a second bloom can mean less successful blooms next season, others fine Phals in particular handle this fine.
Locate the nodes at the bottom of the stem of the flower spike. Nodes look like little nubs or bumps along the stem, below the peduncle. The peduncle is the part of the flower spike that the flowers grow off. This diagram should help:
Look for the node that is closest to the lowest flower on the spike. With sterilised, sharp shears (I clean mine with hydrogen peroxide), cut through the internode. You want to cut about 1cm to 3cms above the node that’s below the first flower, between the node and the flower.
The red lines below show two places you could cut when using this method – both are between the lowest flower and the first node below it – however when there are 2 flower spikes at once, it’s often recommended to use method 2 on one spike, and method 3 on the other spike.
After you trim the flower spike, keep feeding a flowering fertiliser, like GT Orchid Focus BLOOM to help fuel repeat flowering as it takes a lot of energy out of your plant.
#3: Trim the entire stem
If your orchid isn’t looking its best, has already flowered twice, or needs a rest to focus on producing new, stronger roots and leaves, ready for bigger and better flowering next season: Cut the spike right down to the base, down close to the plant.
If you’re unsure how low to cut, or concerned about snipping the plant by accident, you can leave the bottom one to two nodes on the stem. S witch to a foliage fertiliser that supports root and leaf growth, such as GT Orchid Focus GROW or Dyna-Gro Orchid-Pro to help your plant recover.
Where do you trim if you have two flower spikes?
If you’ve been blessed with two flower spikes on your orchid at the same time, the usual advice is to cut one spike at the base (method 3 above), and the other spike 2cms or so above the first node (method 2 above).
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Orchids sometimes sprout baby plants, or keikis, from their flower stems. Literally translated, “keiki” is Hawaiian for “the little one” — and that’s just what keikis are. They’re little orchid plants.
Why are Keikis Produced?
Mature orchids may produce keikis for a variety of reasons. For instance, some genera, such as phalaenopsis and dendrobium orchids, are prone to create keikis. Many times, however, keikis are created when an orchid is stressed. If an orchid is dying, asexually producing a keiki may be its best chance at passing on its genes.
Because keikis are produced asexually, without pollination, each keiki is genetically identical to its mother plant. Once mature, they’ll have the same flowers as the mother plant.
How Do You Identify Keikis?
Keikis look like little plants growing on the stem of a parent plant. On phalaenopsis orchids, they usually occur on the nodes along the stem. On dendrobiums, they’re typically at the end of the cane, which is where the hormones necessary to produce a keiki accumulate.
- is the temperature too high (especially for phalaenopsis orchids)?
- is the orchid receiving too little light?
To remove a keiki, simply cut it off with a sharp, sterile blade. To prevent more keikis from forming, you may want to cut back the mother orchid’s spikes after they’re done blooming. Sprinkle cinnamon, which is a natural fungicide, on any open wounds after cutting.
- Leave the keiki on the mother plant until its roots are 1 to 3 inches long, and it has a small shoot and a couple of leaves.
- Once the keiki meets the above criteria, separate it from the mother orchid by cutting 1 to 2 inches down the spike of the mother orchid. (The keiki’s roots will remain wrapped around the spike, but the section of spike the keiki is on should now be separated from the mother plant.)
- Sprinkle the open wounds on the flower spike with cinnamon to fight fungal infection.
- Replant the keiki in a separate pot, which should have fresh potting mix. Direct the keiki’s roots downward and use the spike to anchor the baby orchid.
- Write a separate label for the keiki so you remember its pedigree. Some growers like to numerically label it as well (with the #2) to track the keikis.
- Protect the keiki from direct sunlight and mist it regularly. Keikis need less light and higher humidity than mature orchids.
