The Stem was a pain!
How to Draw a Cocktail
For the last step draw the rest of the glass detailing which will form the drink inside. Erase whatever mistakes you might have made.
Step 5.
That’s it, you are all done. Now you can color in this drawing of a cocktail.
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Description: As summer time is here we will be exposed to a series of different drinks found in restaurants, bars, and homes. Today I will show you “how to draw a cocktail“, step by step. Cocktails are made with different types of spirits mixed with some sort of juice blend like pomegranate juice, orange juice, fruit syrup, and the list goes on. The drink I made is a strawberry cocktail with a stirring straw to make sure that things get mixed up properly. Drawing a cocktail can be fun, you can even add a slice of fruit for a decorative garnish. Meet me back here in a few folks, adios..
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Handmade Martini Glass – Creating the Form
To create a well-balanced cup that isn’t top-heavy and resists tipping, use the idea of a fulcrum, leaving most of the weight in the center section of the cup where the vessel and stem meet. Making the rim of the cup slightly thinner to reduce weight at the top and keeping the base slightly thicker at the foot give it stability. In addition, I use a short-stem design to keep a low center of gravity.
Nobody wants a teeny martini! To create a properly scaled and generously sized cup (10 oz. after the glaze firing), I use two chopsticks (see 1) secured together in a T shape (electrical tape works well) that are cut to the dimensions I need based on my clay’s shrinkage rate. You can use this tool to gauge both the depth (33/4 in.) and diameter (4½ in.) while throwing. The stem is approximately ¾ the height and ½ the diameter of the cup. Proportionally speaking, the stem height is a little less important than the width at the base. The width needs to be adequate to support the widening V shape so the cup is sturdy and won’t tip.
I work with the classic V shape for the martini cup, which was developed for a few reasons. Since no ice is put in a martini glass, the stemmed design keeps your hands away from the body of the glass, so that the liquid stays chilled longer. The wide rim helps to let the spirit open up (this is more true of gin). And, the steep walls prevent liquids from separating.
Throwing and Trimming the Handmade Martini Glass
Center approximately 1 pound of clay and open a very narrow, rounded bottom. Gradually throw the wall outward and upward, into a classic martini V shape. Use your chopstick T to check your progress for depth and width (4×4½ inches for my clay body) (1). Once you’re satisfied with the form, refine and compress the wall between two ribs (2). Make sure to smooth away all throwing lines from the inside and outside, and thin and refine your rim. Once your cup form is complete, set it aside for trimming later.
Then, using about 3–4 pounds of clay, throw the stem off the hump. I like an open-bottomed stem to allow for cut feet. The cutouts bring lightness and a detail that continues the surface pattern through the use of negative space. Begin by throwing a bottle-shaped form (23/4 inches in height × 21/2 inches in diameter) with a floor (this will be cut off later), making sure to note where the base begins. These are not trimmed, so throw the walls to the desired thickness and bring up enough clay to create a collar that will be able to hold and accept the cup. Using your metal rib, create and refine the collar (3), taking care to create the proper angle. Using your wire tool or a needle tool, first cut at the base of the stem, then cut below that, between the clay and the wheel head, or if throwing off the hump, cut at least 1/4 inch below the base of the stem to create a pad or disc of clay underneath the stem to help lift it off the hump without distorting it. Set aside until it’s leather hard and then peel off the excess clay pad.
Next, trim away the excess clay on the outside of the cup. I place the cup rim side down on the wheel head and tap it on center. I use only a thin film of water and gentle pressure for suction to secure the pot to the wheel head. Lugs of clay would mar the surface and potentially warp the form. Keeping in mind the fulcrum effect, I leave a little extra weight at the bottom of the cup, where it comes to a point. Use a rubber rib to smooth and compress the tip of the cone and the walls (4).
Assembling the Handmade Martini Glass
My love of Art Deco design and architecture is ingrained in my background as a former art and creative director in New York City. I have had the privilege of working in some of the most famous Art Deco buildings in the world. While these places are a large part of my inspiration, I’m not using literal motifs from that period, but instead letting my mind form patterns and designs based on fragments and details of these locations from my memory.
Attach the cup to the collar of the stem by slipping and scoring. I like to check in two directions that the connections are being made evenly and the cup is level (5). This connection point is the perfect place to add a small detail and to ensure the parts are well connected. Using a dragon-scale tool (designed for texturing clay with scale patterns), I stamp marks in 4 equidistant places around the collar (6). Once the two sections are connected, I handle the martini cup at the base of the cup form, right above the joint. Handle the cup gently at this point to avoid warping or stressing the seam between the cup and base.
Step 5: Sanding & Assembly
Sanding is a bit of a misnomer. A rag with water is enough to dissolve the salt and create a smooth surface. I used sand paper as it just sped up the process. It took about 10 minutes or so to get three gleaming smooth pieces.
I had no idea how to attach the pieces. I tried wetting down the joints thinking it would adhere to itself. I ended up going with epoxy, which worked beautifully.
Completed Salt Glass
All in all it was a success and a good bit of fun. well, save the cleanup.
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14 Comments
Reply Upvote
This is taking salt on a margarita to a new level. Wow!
Reply Upvote
Reply Upvote
Haha! I love the natural progression you made from a bracelet to a functional item. Not only that but you made a salt glass so now you don’t need a salted rim! Clever. Could you taste it in the drink?
Also, did you ever to a dissolve test with solid scraps of the salt to see how long the material might last? Nice work, thanks for sharing it!
1 reply
kludge77 gravityisweak
Reply 8 years ago on Introduction
Reply Upvote
Thanks! It tasted pretty normal in the test! I think it should last a while. It took about ten minutes with sandpaper to remove some small tool ridges from the pieces, so I imagine it will last a good many drinks!
Reply Upvote
Looks awesome very similar to alabaster goblets I’m assuming it can’t be used unless u clear coat with a food safe epoxy?
1 reply
kludge77 matt.sims.37266
Reply 8 years ago on Introduction
Reply Upvote
I used it at the end of the video. Worked great!
Reply Upvote
The turning and the “carving” looks so satisfying
1 reply
kludge77 CuriosityMachine
Reply 8 years ago on Introduction
Reply Upvote
It was! The cleaning, not so much!
Reply Upvote
Hey, very cool project and impressive lathe skills. How fast does the glass dissolve, as in how many drinks can you have before they go straight through ? 🙂
1 reply
kludge77 deluges
Reply 8 years ago on Introduction
Reply Upvote
I think it will take some time. I worked at with the sandpaper for 10 minutes just to remove some small ridges.
