Meet the Expert
Shade Control In Indigo Dyeing | Part 1
For customers of denim, color is the quality that distinguishes denim from other apparel fabrics, especially the unique appearance of Indigo. Indigo has been in use for perhaps 5000 years, originally as a natural dye and in the last 100 years primarily available in the synthetic form. No other commercially available dye can match the appearance of Indigo, especially when faded to light shades which produces a special appearance known as a “patina” which is similar to the glow of a blue sky. The color of Indigo is associated in lore with notions of intuition, religion, spirituality and loyalty.
Indigo-dyed denim presents unique problems in garment production because of variations in color, especially after washing. Fabric shipments to laundry customers can contain literally dozens of visibly different shades after washing which requires special efforts in cutting and sewing to avoid mixing garment panels that produce a garment with parts that do not match in color.
The most basic method of organizing shipments of Indigo-dyed denim is to cut small samples of fabric from each roll of fabric that will go into a shipment and sew them together in a “blanket”. This blanket is then washed so that there is some representation of the eventual color after fading during laundering. Then these samples are compared by the customer and “shaded”, sort usually from dark to light. Then, the fabric rolls with the most similar after-wash colors are combined on the cutting table in order to minimize variation in the garments produced. This technique is often favored by denim mills. This approach can be generally satisfactory, however has a number of deficiencies.
First, the fabric samples are taken usually from one end of the roll, when both ends should be sampled. Almost all denim companies fail to control Indigo dyeing so that multiple shades are produced in each dye lot and these changes can occur quickly, so that even within a short fabric roll of 100 meters the washed color can change. By sampling from both ends of a fabric roll it can be determined if the roll needs to be cut again in order to isolate different shades.
Secondly, these washed fabric samples are often graded visually, by human eye, which is unreliable because of its subjective nature. Consistent visual evaluation of color requires careful training and management due to problems with eye fatigue, differences in evaluator skill and carelessness. When a poor job has been done during visual shade sorting, it is impossible to supervise the reliability of the evaluation because it is based on subjective individual opinion. The visual approach is favoured by fabric suppliers and customers because of its simplicity. There is also a conceit factor that interferes with reliable color management because of a common assumption that color is obvious and those that have roles in judging color that they are natural masters of judging color which is rarely true.
Thirdly, the fabric supplier will rely on one wash method, usually a rinse wash to produce these blankets for sorting, while with other procedures such as stonewashing, bleaching or enzyme treatments, the samples will fade differently than in a rinse wash so that samples that are close in color in a rinse only will not match well when subjected to other laundry techniques.
Indigo is the most difficult and complicated of all dyes to apply to cotton. Until the 20 th century, it was used primarily for wool and silk which are more suitable for Indigo dyeing. The Indigo dyeing process is inherently unstable as normally practiced. The dye must be reacted with a reducing agent, normally sodium hydrosulfite, which begins to lose strength as soon as it is mixed and the concentration available in the dye mix changes during the dyeing operation unless it is buffered, which results in the Indigo shade changing during the long periods of dyeing. This in turn, results in from 8 to 15 washed Indigo shades per set, assuming a tolerance of 0.2 Delta E for a visually-noticeable color difference. The lack of dyeing control for Indigo is nearly universal, so that customers have accepted the variation as unavoidable, which is not actually the case since a few companies have mastered the problem and can produce around 95% single shade consistency
Play With Pops of Color
Intimidated by the thought of adding a bold color like indigo to your space? Consider playing with pops of color rather than committing to a full-blown color scheme. This will enable you to take a smaller-doses approach to the bold shade, helping you get used to it without forcing you to commit to anything drastic right off the bat.
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Take a Risk on an Accent Wall
Accent walls are a great way to commit to a color without letting it cover the whole room. Spring for a sleek indigo wall that’s exactly as light or as dark as you want it to be, and pair it with one of the neutrals in your palette.
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Play With Prints
Paint is a popular way to add color to a space, but it’s not your only option. Printed linens like curtains and upholstered chairs can be an equally effective way to add new shades to your palette. Color-coordinate some of your accent pieces and consider letting the other décor in your space in on the fun, too.
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What Goes With Indigo Blue?
Cheryl F 25 January, 2016
Houzz Contributor. I’m a London-based journalist with years of experience writing for the UK’s top interiors titles. I love shopping for quirky accessories, have a passion for rummaging through vintage stores and I’m ever-hopeful of finding that elusive perfect paint shade.
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Indigo is slowly creeping into homes across the land, building on our love affair with that other fashionable moody hue, dark grey. It’s versatile and can create a look that’s elegant, modern, cosy or grand, depending on how and where you use it. Here are some inspiring ideas on how to work this dramatic inky shade to best effect.
Oliver Chapman Architects Save Photo
Give traditional style a contemporary twist
Rich, deep, indigo walls offer an instant heritage look – ideal if you want a shortcut to a cosy, country boutique hotel look. Indigo works fabulously alongside traditional fittings, but in a truly modern way.
In this elegant space, the dark blue walls go beautifully with the classic armchair and sofa, gilt-framed oil painting and eye-catching chandelier.
When choosing paint, be sure to try a few tester pots to get the right shade and effect for your room – indigo shades vary from almost black to greenish or greyish. Look at your test shades in natural and artificial light, and at different times of day, to be confident of your choice.
Charlotte Crosland Interiors Save Photo
Lighten up and contrast
As a nation, we’re slowly moving away from pale and tasteful in our homes towards dark, designer and moody, and the trend for indigo sums this up nicely. However, this delicious dark blue often needs a little something to lighten it up.
Here, mustard velvet cushions contrast beautifully with the blue wall to create an upmarket boho effect. The trio of jewel-bright artworks also helps to lift the scheme. Mustard and indigo might seem like colour opposites, but the rich retro shade works with indigo as its warmer tones counter the coolness of the blue. Velvet also goes well with indigo, as seen with this burgundy sofa, as it enhances the opulent feel.
Alex Maguire Photography Save Photo
Show off some vibrant art
Indigo makes a great gallery-style backdrop to bright artworks, as seen here, as it allows colours and designs to really stand out.
Choose a chalky, matt finish for walls for a quality feel, plus the lack of reflection will allow prints and canvases to take centre stage.
SxS Design & Build Ltd Save Photo
Add a chic sense of style
A deep, inky blue can give elegance to overlooked spaces that might otherwise veer towards the ‘vanilla’. Here, a matt indigo wall behind a simple wooden desk and chair is all that’s needed to turn a minimal nook into a charming study space. The heritage-style wall lamps add to the overall effect.
aegis interior design ltd Save Photo
Try some sky-blue thinking
You might not consider teaming indigo with lighter shades of blue, but this beautiful bedroom illustrates exactly why you should.
Using a combination of colours from the same area of the spectrum can create a chic, pulled-together look – here, the dark blue walls work surprisingly well with the azur bed throw and Grecian-style bedhead. The result is a holiday-like space that’s quirky and original.
Peter A. Sellar – Architectural Photographer Save Photo
Introduce an orange accent
Indigo shades don’t have to dominate a whole room or be used only in traditional or retro spaces. In this light, modern study, only a single wall has been painted in darkest, inkiest navy. The bright orange chair, lamp and cabinet stand out against the deep blue and white to create a simple but devastatingly effective scheme. It ’ s also a look that would be easy to replicate in other rooms, using cushions, throws, artworks, vases – or even a beautiful bowl of tangerines – as your orange accent.
JTWdesign LLC Save Photo
Perk up with hot pink
If you’re after a scheme that’s glamorous, cheeky and fun, try teaming deep blue with bright pink accents, as seen here. Just a smattering of touches will do – here the chair, some key accessories and the floral wallpaper in the recessed shelving add a dash of pink.
You don’t have to commit to indigo right across a large room, either. This look demonstrates how inky walls can be used to zone an open-plan space – the living room is dark, while the dining area sticks to classic white.
Becca Interiors Save Photo
Use indigo as a neutral
While indigo is technically blue, it also works as a dark neutral. Try using it in place of cream, white or pale grey walls, and avoid a colour clash by sticking to neutrals elsewhere – in this scheme, oatmeal and buff shades add light and contrast, and stop the room appearing dingy.
If you’re worried about indigo walls being too dark, try choosing an ultra-glossy paint finish to help bounce light around the room.
Godrich Interiors Save Photo
Play up to a heritage look
Indigo adds an instant dash of upmarket grandeur as it has a distinct period flavour. Play to its strengths by using the shade with traditional period fittings in a bathroom or washroom – it works brilliantly here, with the pedestal basins, mirrors and golden chandelier set against rich Hague Blue.
Sharyn Cairns Save Photo
Beef up boutique chic
When teamed with dark wood, indigo can create a smart, high-end look that’s grown-up and sophisticated, as seen in this bedroom. The dark blue bed linen gives the wood panelling, flooring and bedhead a boutique-hotel twist.
Taylor Jacobson Interior Design Save Photo
Ground a homespun scheme
Inky blue shades on walls can lift a retro, crafty look and counter its potential descent into seeming overly twee or messy.
In this pretty retro bedroom, the indigo walls sit with an eclectic mix of stripy orange headboard, quirky patterned cushions and knitted throw. Take away the navy and the whole scheme would seem less ‘grounded’.
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Don’t forget florals
Given a light touch, indigo can work anywhere. In this fresh, country-style bedroom, the blue wall behind the bed is lifted by the floral duvet cover and curtains, and the pale carpet.
Nathalie Priem Photography Save Photo
Give white some gravitas
A dab of inky blue in an all-white scheme can be a chic way to add depth and contrast. An indigo sofa adds a smart touch to this light, white space and is also practical (no grubby fingermarks). Choose a modern, boxy shape for a Scandi feel. This sofa also goes well with the pale blue of the armchairs.
Martins Camisuli Architects Save Photo
Update rustic wood
Dark blues often look good teamed with natural woods. These indigo kitchen units make a perfect contrast to the rustic table and chairs, and the parquet flooring.
Choosing a bold, definite colour for kitchen units can feel risky, but dark blue manages to look timeless and chic – and simultaneously dodges the potential for a lifeless, bland kitchen scheme. Here, the unfussy units with minimal lines add to a look that’s utilitarian and modern.
Rikki Snyder Save Photo
Let blue and green be seen
Green and blue might not seem like obvious interiors bedfellows (remember the old adage that ‘blue and green should never be seen’?). But as shown in this smart, stylish living room, sometimes rules are made to be broken.
There’s something of the peacock’s tail in this jewel-bright room’s palette – the key is to get your shade of green right. Lime, grass and the lighter edge of emerald work well with indigo; anything darker could drag it down. Similarly, the indigo used here is minimal, as it ’ s just in the wall stripes, while the more dominant shade is less inky and more midnight blue.
TELL US…
How have you used indigo in your home? Share your thoughts, pictures and ideas in the Comments below.
