I often try to get paint party guests to book their own parties, and not just for my financial benefit. The more classes they take part in, the more techniques they are going to learn.
What is the method for blending acrylic paint?
I am still not very good at the blending either. One trick I use sometimes when painting a larger blended area, such as a sky, is to brush a coat of blending medium straight onto the canvas, as well as adding medium to the paint itself. The wet canvas doesn’t seem to let the paint dry as fast, allowing for a bit more blending before it turns to glue. The only other option is to drink a LOT more caffeine, and try to paint faster, but thats a whole other topic, lol. Once again, I am sure there are LOTS of better tips from some of the legends of blending lurking around here, but I thought I would offer what (little) I knew. Hope it helps!
Dan Leamons
Online gallery at: http://www.danleamons.com
Become a fan of Art by Dan Leamons on Facebook (then add me as a friend!)
“Its not what you see in a painting, but what you FEEL in a painting”
March 26, 2009 at 1:00 am #1114719
Default
Welcome. wave: Yep, seems to be a question everyone has at one point or another when using acrylics:lol: But, I’m sure everyone has an answer too. I’m new to painting and I started with acrylics:cool: I tend to just use water by keeping a cup handy and using an atomizer(little spray bottle). You want one that just spits a mist and not huge amounts.:eek: Personally, I’ve tried the medium and still haven’t figured it out yet. But, as they say practice makes perfect…:confused: or is it more practice is more FUN:thumbsup: good luck
Rafty
March 26, 2009 at 1:12 am #1114700
Default
My biggest tip for blending would be to use lots of paint, don’t skimp on the amount. If you paint using a glazing technique then a glazing medium would work well.
Cheers, Donna
My Blog My Website
My Flickr Page
March 26, 2009 at 8:27 am #1114704
Default
I do a few methods for blending. If I’m working on a large area, I start off by applying layers of watered down paint, with each layer getting less watery – sometimes it takes up to 6 or 7 layers. Another is using a product called a returner. I find this keeps the paint moving and blends quite nicely. I’ve tried both the liquid form and the gel and like using both. One other method is to use glazing and layer the colours on that way. Now don’t laugh, but when I have a large area to blend I use both hands and use a small brush in one hand and a larger brush in the other to follow the small strokes to smooth them out. ( I figure I have two hands, might as well put both of them to work)
In acrylics, what you lose on the straights you make up for on the corners . Robert Genn
March 26, 2009 at 8:37 am #1114720
Default
Wow, 2 hands at once! I never would have thought of that. Thanks for the great tips all. Using lots of water brings up another problem I have noticed – with too much water going on the canvas I have seen a “hole” form that seems to resist any paint. Its right down to the bare canvas and is nearly paint-proof. Have to wait for everything to dry before continuing. I guess the idea is don’t get that much water on? Anyway, I will think about the tips y’all have provided, and thanks again.
March 26, 2009 at 8:49 am #1114710
Default
I know it isn’t to the point of your question but sometimes you can work around having to blend by mixing and placing appropriate transition halftones.
Sometimes over -blending can result in too feathery looking paintings with weak edges. All the prior suggestions for blending are great.
I know what you mean about that hole forming. I have the same issue. Sometimes that happens if you glaze or wash over an area that isn’t completely dry or was put on too thinly with an overdiluted wash. The water reactivates the bottom layer and makes a mess of half broken paint film.
Christophervasil.com
March 26, 2009 at 10:10 am #1114713
Default
Hi and Welcome to the forum! Many here will have various techniques for blending and I imagine that nothing replaces some practice to find what works for you. I tend to paint in layers and not always very thickly, I’d rather deal with thin layers to blend them then thick where I have to move more paint into the other. I start out by working wet into wet, tho my brush is never soaking wet but always just semi wet. I’ll work that paint til my brush starts to drag, and then I will tip my brush with some water and thinned paint and barely touch my lines of demarcation if any remain. To get crisp, sharp blended edges I’ll generally double load my brush, I like all sizes of flats for this, it gives me a good base of values to refine later if need be. Generally if your brush is not too wet and your paint not too thin but thin enough to move easily you can get a good blending stroke, whatever the size of your surface or your brush. Just takes a bit of practice. One very good piece of advice I received was in blending you should ever so lightly touch that area you want to blend with your brush, you won’t disturb the larger area or move paint you don’t want to move, which could only mean more work and more blending time, but you will be able to blend your paint in whatever area needs it. I do a lot of skies and clouds and this has saved me a good deal of aggravation because I want an edge at times but at the same time I want that edge to appear soft and at times will drag a my layer of paint into a haze or a wisp to suggest vapor. Even here I tap the edges with a damp brush so they almost disappear. Layering works, glazing works, dabbing edges works, feathering works, scrumbling and even the basic pencil technique of cross hatching works, working in one direction, then diagonal, and the opposite diagonal til your brush is dry and you feel that drag, lots of things work you just have to play a bit I think. Big areas first laid wet into wet give you an advantage, thick or thin but after that it’s a matter of touch and the consistency of your paint, you actually don’t want to add more color just blend what’s there. Very confusing I’m sure but to repeat, just practice until you are comfortable and satisfied with the results. You’ll find the more you do the more you’ll just automatically blend without thinking bout it. Have fun and don’t be impatient it will come. Elaine
[FONT=georgia, bookman old style, palatino linotype, book antiqua, palatino, trebuchet ms, helvetica, garamond, sans-serif, arial, verdana, avante garde, century gothic, comic sans ms, times, times new roman, serif][FONT=Arial Narrow] Art is a collaboration between God and the artist, and the less the artist does the better. André Gide Forum Projects: Plant Parade projects in
Florals/Botanicals, Different Strokes in the Acrylics Forum.
March 26, 2009 at 10:20 am #1114721
Default
Thank you Noodle! So many great ideas. I will practice and try to be patient. BTW…I wonder if any of you do some areas in acrylic, and the areas that need a lot of blending in oil? I’ve tried laying down backgrounds in acrylic and then oil on top, and in once case did the sky and water in acrylic and then plants and land part in acrylic….trying to have my cake and eat it too I guess . Anyone have thoughts on that approach? Gary
What is Acrylic Paint Blending?
When you want to have two or more colors meet without having harsh lines, you will need to blend the colors. When done properly, this creates soft edges rather than those harsh lines.
You can use soft edges to create a blurry transition between the colors. Blending is often used for seascapes and sunsets or sunrises to create soft edges.
Painting blending can also be used to create numerous effects. These can include but are not limited to, height, focus, and distance.
#1. Wet-On-Wet Blending
For wet-on-wet blending, paint party guests use water, paper towels, and of course, paint. The first step of the process is to put a small amount of two different colors onto the palette.
Next, the paint needs to be thinned with a bit of water. To get the right shade or opacity, add a bit of titanium white.
The brush needs to be soaked in water and then wiped on a paper towel to make sure that it isn’t dripping wet. Another option is to spritz a little bit of water onto the canvas.
The brush is then dipped into the paint, and then wide strokes are used, working side to side.
There are a couple of ways to blend colors using this method.
Most of the time, the first color will be painted from top to bottom, and the second color is painted from the bottom up. The two colors meet in the middle of the canvas as a gradient.
The other way to blend using the wet-on-wet method is to start at the top with the first color, and then dip the brush into the second color.
The brush isn’t rinsed with water before the second color is added, allowing the colors to blend. When you get close to the bottom, clean the brush and apply the second color.
Paint back and forth in straight lines when using the wet-on-wet blending technique. If necessary, paint in layers to get the desired color intensity, making sure that the first layer is dry before painting on top of it.
If you don’t want to spend a lot of time waiting for the paint to dry, you can use a hair dryer to hasten the drying time.
#2. Wet-On-Dry Blending
This is a blending method I tend to teach at painting parties where the guests have some painting experience. This is because it is more difficult to control.
But, you can get some very neat effects when you use this method properly.
One of the things I like the most about this method is that if the paint dries before blending, it isn’t anything to worry about.
To use the wet-on-dry blending technique, start by putting a small amount of two different colors onto your palette. Thin the paints with a bit of water if they are too thick. They should be nice and creamy for this blending method.
Next, the second color, which should be the lighter color, is applied on the canvas beginning at the top of the canvas. Paint towards the middle of the canvas, or to where the two colors are going to meet.
Do not dip the brush into the paint again. Keep painting with the same brush, and you will notice that the paint gets thinner and thinner as you go. If the brush does get too dry, you can dip it into a bit of water (very little, just enough to dampen the paint).
Keep painting, using wide strokes until there is a smooth transition from one color to the other.
Swatch your colours
Within the small boxes, swatch your chosen colours. This can help you decide what order you want to use them in. It is also great for deciding if you want to swap colours. Acrylographs are great for overlapping colours. If you want to change the colour choice, just wait for the pens to dry then colour over the top.
Start blending
Start with the darkest colour (this is my preference) and start colouring a third of the way. Now switch to your middle colour. Colour the middle section of your grid, leaving a small gap where the two colours meet. Now using both of the colours, you want to colour back and forth blending the colours together. This gradient section can be as short or as long as you like, depending on how long you want your gradient to look. Keep blending until you’re happy with how it looks. Next you can add another gradient using the same method.
And that’s it! That is how you can blend acrylographs to make gradients.
Video
Want to see more? Check out this video to see how I made mine!
I hope you enjoyed this blog! Make sure to tag me (@bulletjournalbychloe) and Archer and Olive (@archerandolive) in any of your creations and use the hashtag #AOShare #archerandolive! Have fun getting crafty!
- Acrylograph Pens
- BulletJournalByChloe
